Logitech G940...is this a good investment?

[Eklund89]

No.

It still has reversalbug allover the place. Dont give retarded logitech any money.

[Artist]

No, it is not - unless you're prepared to take it apart, solder and tinker and invest in one of Leo Bodnar's boards as a circumnavigation for the logitech firmware... - then it becomes a great stick

Search the "IL-2 Sturmovik: Cliffs of Dover" and "IL-2 Sturmovik" forums for "G940", "ReversalBug", "Spikes" and you'll know what I am talking about.

I have modded mine - and like it

Artist

[Artist]

Originally Posted by cheesehawk

Never had one incident of anything being
reversed

Nothing is "reversed", the ReversalBug is skipping values when the movement of an axis is reversed (...-9-8-7-6-5-4-7-8-9-...), which has been officially admitted and repaired by Logitech on the x and y axes of the stick but is still present in all other axes (throttle levers and dials, pedals, brakes and trims).

although there are complaints that the FFB on the cannons is too hard (shakes too hard).

That's easy to fix: edit "autocannon.ffe" with ForceEdit to decrease the intensity of that effect.

Artist

Edit: Orthography

[pupo162]

no. i ive had 3.

they always break down with the same problem.

i fly with joytick very rarely (prefer the keybord, old habbits), but the last one lasted for something like 15 hours of use ( 25 days ). im going for a replace next week.

the problem:

note that during the video i only move both the throttle levers, check the dancing of the trim axes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzYoiHN5wWM

[r0bc]

Originally Posted by pupo162

no. i ive had 3.

they always break down with the same problem.

i fly with joytick very rarely (prefer the keybord, old habbits), but the last one lasted for something like 15 hours of use ( 25 days ). im going for a replace next week.

the problem:

note that during the video i only move both the throttle levers, check the dancing of the trim axes.

I can't make my G940 do that, yet....I've had it for about a year

[pupo162]

Originally Posted by r0bc

I can't make my G940 do that, yet....I've had it for about a year

its not like i move my throtle much too... im a 100% noob XD

[pupo162]

Originally Posted by cheesehawk

Love the background on your comp. Can we get a better view of it?

no. ive lsot it it was "stollen from the ubi forum somewhere in 2010. I loved it too. i had some 3 of this quality.

bounty hunting this family and author

haha !

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/att...zum_start1.jpg

i love you man, i had hte name of the pic on my workscreen, i never tought of it before.

[ACE-OF-ACES]

Originally Posted by pupo162

no. i ive had 3.

they always break down with the same problem.

i fly with joytick very rarely (prefer the keybord, old habbits), but the last one lasted for something like 15 hours of use ( 25 days ). im going for a replace next week.

the problem:

note that during the video i only move both the throttle levers, check the dancing of the trim axes.

I only bought one.. and at first it worked fine.. Than I stated noticing the spikes in the trim (R1 R2?) when moving the throttles.. Next thing to go was the rudders.. They started doing the reversal spike as you moved the rudders.. Really causes the nose of the plane to yaw around badly.. It got so bad I finaly got rid of the rudders and got the new Satiek rudders..

Sad part is the joystick itself, wrt force feedback is great! but the throttles and rudders are total crap!

For a long time I was following the thread at Logi on this issue.. but.. after some months it looks like Logi has gave up on the G940.. Those who are not experancing problems should count themselfs lucky and hope that they.. like so many others.. dont have the problem show up eventually.

So if you have to have FFB joystick, and are willing to repalce the throttle and rudders, than go for it! But if you only have so much $ to spend, I would recomend you look for an old MSFFB2 joystick on ebay.

[robtek]

The "throttle problem" of the G940 is really easy to repair, if your stick is out of warranty you just open the throttle unit (screws under the rubber pads) and control the connection from the pcb to the buttons and wheels.
Usually the cable ist almost too short and fixated with scews with washers, somtimes clamping a cable or causing tension wich pulls the plug from the socket.

The cable consists of 10 wires 0,14 mm thick, iirc, in my case a careful rerouting solved the problem.