Joystick mods

[julian265]

If you're interested in, but not familiar with HE sensors, have a read of the link in my sig.

You can make them quite cheaply (under $10 each) with linear output, no spiking, and no contacting parts -> no wear.

The hard part is mounting them nicely in a stick with a conventional base.

[jimbop]

Originally Posted by julian265

If you're interested in, but not familiar with HE sensors, have a read of the link in my sig.

You can make them quite cheaply (under $10 each) with linear output, no spiking, and no contacting parts -> no wear.

The hard part is mounting them nicely in a stick with a conventional base.

Thanks - I've just been thinking about using a U-joint or similar for building a stick and now I know I'm not crazy... A car U-joint seems a bit excessive though? What about a tie rod end or something?

Is that yours in the link?

[Widowmaker214]

I just finished modding my cougar...

Got uber cougar U2NXT gimbal replacement and hal effect pots.

also got the hal pot kit for my thrustmaster elite rudders.

Awesome. Expensive.. but.. awesome.

[jimbop]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker214

I just finished modding my cougar...

Got uber cougar U2NXT gimbal replacement and hal effect pots.

also got the hal pot kit for my thrustmaster elite rudders.

Awesome. Expensive.. but.. awesome.

Roughly how much is the U2NXT gimbal replacement and hall kit?

[julian265]

Originally Posted by jimbop

Thanks - I've just been thinking about using a U-joint or similar for building a stick and now I know I'm not crazy... A car U-joint seems a bit excessive though? What about a tie rod end or something?

Is that yours in the link?

Yes, that's my stick.

There's no such thing as excessive when it comes to human input devices!
Also my stick uses the weight (inertia) to give it a more realistic feel.

People have also used motorbike u-joints, which are smaller but can still retain the hollow cross-piece / spider. You might also check out steering u-joints, although they won't have the axis holes, but the metal might be soft enough to drill and tap, unlike u-joint's cross-piece.

IIRC all the completely custom built gimbals are larger than these u-joints, but of course they are made to perfectly suit the base, grip and sensors.

A tie rod end's movement isn't separated nicely into two axes (also it can rotate in the Z axis), so you'd find it harder to measure the X and Y rotation with sensors, whereas a u-joint has done it already. However, there are three axis sensors that can deal witht this method.

[JumpingHubert]

@julian
i´ve overlook your brilliant solution with the u-joint. Wow!

[julian265]

Originally Posted by JumpingHubert

@julian
i´ve overlook your brilliant solution with the u-joint. Wow!

Thanks. It's not just mine - there are a few around.

[jimbop]

Originally Posted by julian265

Yes, that's my stick.

There's no such thing as excessive when it comes to human input devices!
Also my stick uses the weight (inertia) to give it a more realistic feel.

People have also used motorbike u-joints, which are smaller but can still retain the hollow cross-piece / spider. You might also check out steering u-joints, although they won't have the axis holes, but the metal might be soft enough to drill and tap, unlike u-joint's cross-piece.

IIRC all the completely custom built gimbals are larger than these u-joints, but of course they are made to perfectly suit the base, grip and sensors.

A tie rod end's movement isn't separated nicely into two axes (also it can rotate in the Z axis), so you'd find it harder to measure the X and Y rotation with sensors, whereas a u-joint has done it already. However, there are three axis sensors that can deal witht this method.

Thanks julian265, interesting stuff. How do you find the transition between axes? Is there resistance which favours a particular axis when you gently move diagonally from the centre? Difficult to explain what I mean...

[JumpingHubert]

not perfect centered but better as nothing http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...t-case-14.html

[julian265]

Originally Posted by jimbop

Thanks julian265, interesting stuff. How do you find the transition between axes? Is there resistance which favours a particular axis when you gently move diagonally from the centre? Difficult to explain what I mean...

I know exactly what you mean - I noticed it very much with my CH flightstick pro (although I quite liked it that way).

I see it as the static friction exceeding the dynamic friction in the bearings (as is normal), so an axis takes more effort to get moving than to keep moving, which makes the stick feel like it prefers to travel along one axis rather than at small diagonal angles.

I can feel this tendency in my uni-joint stick a bit, although I have my bearings adjusted fairly tight so that it can hold it's position (I never bothered with centering springs) and provide more resistance. See the attached image, taken from the JoyTest2 program. If the tendency was stronger, you'd see straighter lines more aligned with the axes.

If you want to avoid the axis-hugging tendency, adjust the bearing cups to get the desired (lack of) friction. Uni-joints use roller bearings, so you should be able to pretty much remove the tendency. Also, use thin or no oil in the bearings. You'll probably need something to keep the stick centered, such as springs if you do it this way.