Modded my X52 pro - it's another stick!!

[Bearcat]

Originally Posted by albx

very nice, and the stick? what you did for the stick?

Don't forget.. IL2 will see up to 4 controllers.. I use my X-52 stick as a button bay ... With the X-45 it was a little easier because t was all switches and pots.. The HE sensors on the X-52 and the different makeup of the stick make a more challenging task in some respects but in may ways it is a lot easier because the X-52 circuitry is more modular.. With the X-45 had to make my own connectors.. When I originally got the X-45 I really only wanted the throttle. I had this big old stick sitting on my desk and I figured what the heck.. I might as well use the buttons. One day I was looking at some posts by Sokol @ UBI and I decided to give it a shot.. That stick lasted me until the board went and I couldn't get another one without buying one.. so I figured if was going to buy another stick I might as well buy an X-52.. Then I got tired of the whole big stick on my desk thing again.. so here I am..I'll post pics when I am done..

4.10 makes it even better because more things are now on an axis so I can actually find a use for the three extra axii.. (The X,Y & Z). As it is right now I have rudder trim on the slider throttle slider for my MSFFB2. Aileron & elevator trim are on the wheels on my throttle.. and I always did have zoom on a slider/switch even before the 6DoF mod.. but now I don't have to use a macro so it is on the thumb slider of my throttle.. I think I will assign my rudder trim to the Z pot on the X-52 once I get it done and make the throttle on my MSFFB2 my radiator control and figure out what to do with the two X & Y axii of the X-52 once I figure out how I want to set them up.. Even now I use all the switches and have it set up for 3 modes.. with mode 1 being T/O & Landing, Mode 2 is Combat and Mode 3 is Emergency or lesser used stuff like Bail and drop tanks etc.. It is shaping up pretty well so far... the time between the first two and the third pic is







update

[klem]

And now the big question for the X52. Where can I get replacement buttons (those little diaphragm ones) and pots for the Throttle?

Saitek have pushed their support out to another outfit and they won't supply parts like Saitek UK used to do.

I have got close on the diaphragm switches, slightly oversize but a possible fit, but those flat profile pots elude me.

Does anyone have an answer to these?

[Bearcat]

Hmmm the throttle doesn't use HE sensors like the stick? I never took it apart.. If my Throttle ever started to go south I am not sure what I would do..

[Sokol1]

X-52/PRO and even X-65F use HALL only in X and Y axis, throttle and rotaries use pots.

If the maker dont offer replacement is difficult change pots, since stick use pots with 60, 90
degrees for course, diameter and length of axis in many cases are specifics.

Fortunately is relative ease replace pots with DIY HALL sensor assembles.

Sokol1

[klem]

Well I have a long standing technical background but its a bit out of date.

1. Can I simply buy the 'right' hall sensor and wire it in in place of the pot or 2. Does it need some kind of interface/driver?

If the answer to question 1 is Yes, where do I get the sensors and magnets?
If the answer to question 2 is Yes, well I guess that's a dead idea

[recoilfx]

Originally Posted by klem

Well I have a long standing technical background but its a bit out of date.

1. Can I simply buy the 'right' hall sensor and wire it in in place of the pot or 2. Does it need some kind of interface/driver?

If the answer to question 1 is Yes, where do I get the sensors and magnets?
If the answer to question 2 is Yes, well I guess that's a dead idea

You need to get a ratiometric, linear hall sensors like Allegro A1302. They come in three prongs just like the pots. Wire them the same way.

Do a google search for Allegro A1302, you should get some places that sell them, I know that Jameco sells them. Magnets should be neodymium - you can pick those up at craft stores such as Michael's.

[klem]

Originally Posted by recoilfx

You need to get a ratiometric, linear hall sensors like Allegro A1302. They come in three prongs just like the pots. Wire them the same way.

Do a google search for Allegro A1302, you should get some places that sell them, I know that Jameco sells them. Magnets should be neodymium - you can pick those up at craft stores such as Michael's.

Thanks,

I'm in the UK but I've found a site that sells the magnets and so far one in Thailand that sells the Sensors. Just need to try to find a European/US supplier if I can.

[Sokol1]

Klen,

Actually USB joystick with pots use this as voltage divider: vary voltage from 0 to 5 volts (some, like entry level Saitek and Logitec vary from 0 to 3,5 volts).

HALL sensor work in the same way, vary the voltage from 0 to 5 volts when a magnetic field change in front them.

Like Recoilfix say, HALL like Alegro A1302 come whit 3 prongs - but pay attention in HALL .PDF for where prongs go.

Potentiometers prongs typically are:
+5V - Signal - Gnd (if you need invert response change wires between +5 and Gnd).

Alegro A1302 use this arrange - front view (BTW search for A1321 that is more sensible):

+5V - Gnd - Signal (If you need invert response just turn magnets 180 degrees).

The major difficulty in this assemble is find correct alignment between HALL and magnets, due small size o HALL ~ 3 x 4 x 2 mm.

Basic setup:



But this assemble is flexible, you can place HALL in front magnet, between two magnets (ie around Bic pen tube), inside a circular magnet...

Sample o pot convert to HALL:



Note - If stick circuit aliment pots with +5V volts, you just solder pots wires in HALL (accord HALL .PDF).

If stick circuit only proven 3,5 v to pots (Saitek EVO, Logitech 3D PRO...) you need wire HALL direct to USB +5V and Gnd cable and use additional components (resistor and trim pot) to fool USB circuit that he still handled 3,5v pots. Look here:

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph...ml#Post3161753

For joystick firmware the change from pots to HALL dont make difference - they continue receiving voltages changes. So no additional software or drives is need.

And finally: HALL is cheap. (But some joystick makers prefer use 0,09U$ pots... Laudable exception is CH that use ~5,00U$ ones.)

Sokol1

[Bearcat]

Originally Posted by klem

Well I have a long standing technical background but its a bit out of date.

1. Can I simply buy the 'right' hall sensor and wire it in in place of the pot or 2. Does it need some kind of interface/driver?

If the answer to question 1 is Yes, where do I get the sensors and magnets?
If the answer to question 2 is Yes, well I guess that's a dead idea

Yeah me too.. but I am too lazy to do the hard work.. that's why I like the X-52.. it is so modular. On the X-45 I had to do a lot of splicing and soldering.. But nothing like some of the stuff Sokol was doing.. Hey Sokol I found some of those pics on an older drive from some of those X-45 mods you were showing a few years back..

[klem]

Question:
I assume I need diametric Magnets
http://www.first4magnets.com/diametr...gnets-32-c.asp
with North South polarity across the face, not North on one face and South on the other?
Only problem is they are 6mm but they may not be too large.

The Face-Face polarity magnets can be got in 4mm:
http://www.first4magnets.com/f343---...a10y-100-p.asp

Also if it helps anyone else I found the Leo Bodnar site fopr the sensors
http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836X/