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IL-2 Sturmovik: Cliffs of Dover Latest instalment in the acclaimed IL-2 Sturmovik series from award-winning developer Maddox Games.

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  #31  
Old 06-02-2011, 12:35 PM
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Trooper117 Trooper117 is offline
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Thanks for the info Druid.. I only have a 600w PSU and hope that is going to suffice for now..
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  #32  
Old 06-02-2011, 12:56 PM
LoBiSoMeM LoBiSoMeM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AARPRazorbacks View Post
I'v put 2 PSU's on the PC. 500 and 550 watt.

1280-1024 60Hz

Pseudo

AA-x8

AEF-off

SSAO-on

VSYNC-ON

TG- original

The 1st video is with the CloD settings at Med.




The 2ed video is with the settings on Med/high. Med BD and Forest.




The 3ed video is with the settings on high/Very high with the new Nvidia 275.33-desktop-win7-winvista-64bit drivers.Very high-BD and Forest.




Althrough I can fly CLoD at the very high settings I'm going to put the forest at high or med.

With this set up seams the higher the settings the better the sim plays and looks.

This is how I have the PSU'S set up on the PC:

500 and 550 watt on the GPU.
550 watt on MOBO
500 watt on HD and CD/DVD player

After doing this the PC loads and run's faster. And CLoD plays and looks better on my PC than it ever has.

If you have a high end PC and CLod is not playing very well it could be your PSU.

I did not want to get a high Watt PSU when I had others not being used. As it turns out this may work better then getting one PSU with more watts.

This is the link to the page that tells how to do this:
http://www.absoluteinsight.net/21


The main thing that I didn't know was how to put the jumpers to turn on the PSU. The PSU that I add has a switch for off and on. And have it in the back of the PC on the out side With all the wires on the inside of the case other then the 110AC power cord.



If you need to or just want to add more watts to your PC and have some PSU's not being used this is a money saver.


flyer01

PS: Its up to the sim'er to work with there video card to get CLoD or any other sim to work the best in there PC.
Congratulations!

Now we really reach a new level in placebo effect!
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  #33  
Old 06-02-2011, 01:04 PM
drewpee drewpee is offline
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Another thing to think about is some cheaper psu have far less output than what they claim to have. Also cheaper units can have power surges that can at best crash a game and at worst wreck your computer. The power can drop then spike due to things like the fridge starting.
I am a novice at best when it comes to building computers so I did alot of research in every component. One thing I learnt in my latest build was the psu is as important as any other component. In fact most builders will tell you to use a psu much bigger than you need as chances are you will add components to your pc at a later time.
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  #34  
Old 06-02-2011, 01:20 PM
ATAG_Dutch ATAG_Dutch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewpee View Post
In fact most builders will tell you to use a psu much bigger than you need as chances are you will add components to your pc at a later time.
Well, I've been to the shops and the best I could do was a OCZ 700w off the shelf (patience was never one of my virtues).

Will fit it tonight and run some tests on the Black Death track and see about performance change.

I have plenty of Fraps benchmarks on file from the old psu, so I'll do some comparisons.

Having said that, it won't bother me if there's no change as I'll still need the Psu if I upgrade the card.

We shall see!
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  #35  
Old 06-02-2011, 02:18 PM
SEE SEE is offline
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PSU must be able to maintain regulation under load, my recently replaced 750W dipped to 11.5V when launching missions in CoD and the GPU would not render correctly.

I tried it as an additional dedicated GPU supply but the rugulation is fubarred. The replacement coolmaster provides good steady 12V regualtion under load.

If you have two known good PSU's (and space to fit) I don't see why you shouldn't connect them in tandem to share load, just make sure that the common rails are tied together (usually most PSU's 0v is connected to the PSU casing and if both are bolted to the steel casing both PSU's should have a common ground 0v).

The only concern I would have are possible effects of having some 12V and 5V rails being present at slightly different times during switch on (unless you can get the mobo to switch both on at the same time).

Interesting thread.
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  #36  
Old 06-02-2011, 02:26 PM
Vengeanze Vengeanze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneDruid View Post
The "needs a 550 Watt" psu recommendations are just a safe margin.
There's more to a computer than a graphicscard and like someone smart said "The wattage itself depends on the system you are running."

Here's just an example of a site where one can check what type of PSU is needed.
http://www.raptoxx.com/calculator.php


Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneDruid View Post
If saying the thruth is beeing an asshole in your view than.. call me one, no problem.
I don't know but to my experience by having a good tone it's more likely that peeps listen to what you say.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneDruid View Post
If you would have read my text you might have been able to get the "seasonic is a good brand" message, but maybe it was just hidden too deep.
You are more likely to find one of the brands I posted than a Seasonic. But I'll give it to you, u came with a suggestion...kinda.

Anyways, we both agree that a 80 plus 500W is sufficient for most systems.
The OP had 350W so can't hurt with his new 500 Corsair (or rebranded Seasonic if u like).


Btw, I hate multiquote!
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  #37  
Old 06-02-2011, 02:50 PM
CharveL CharveL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vengeanze View Post
There's more to a computer than a graphicscard and like someone smart said "The wattage itself depends on the system you are running."

Here's just an example of a site where one can check what type of PSU is needed.
http://www.raptoxx.com/calculator.php



I don't know but to my experience by having a good tone it's more likely that peeps listen to what you say.


You are more likely to find one of the brands I posted than a Seasonic. But I'll give it to you, u came with a suggestion...kinda.

Anyways, we both agree that a 80 plus 500W is sufficient for most systems.
The OP had 350W so can't hurt with his new 500 Corsair (or rebranded Seasonic if u like).


Btw, I hate multiquote!
I don't mind your tone. People should be less sensitive about it but anyway...

Let's not fail to include the draw from USB when trying to figure out what one needs to power their system. Flight simmers tend to have quite a few USB devices all trying to get their juice as well.
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  #38  
Old 06-02-2011, 04:26 PM
warbirds warbirds is offline
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"PC Power and Cooling" power supplies are the only ones I will use. They build industrial power supplies and hobby power supplies. They build them, not import them.
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  #39  
Old 06-02-2011, 06:05 PM
jt_medina jt_medina is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoBiSoMeM View Post
Congratulations!

Now we really reach a new level in placebo effect!
1+ And dare to try to convince him he is wrong.
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  #40  
Old 06-02-2011, 06:35 PM
ATAG_Dutch ATAG_Dutch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoBiSoMeM View Post
Congratulations!

Now we really reach a new level in placebo effect!
Have to concur here.

Fitted new 700w OCZ psu from original Dell OE 350w psu.

Here are the Black Death Fraps results before and after, with identical ingame graphics settings and CCC preset.

Before -
Frames, Time (ms), Min, Max, Avg
4155, 212890, 6, 50, 19.517

After -
Frames, Time (ms), Min, Max, Avg
4130, 214891, 7, 50, 19.219

in-game AA off, card AA and anisotropic filter set to application controlled (so no AA at all then!)

Vertical refresh always off

All other card settings set to 'high performance'

SSAO off, V-Synch off, epilepsy off

All detail settings set to 'High', grass on, shadows on.


Ah well, at least I know I can upgrade the card now!
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