![]() |
#31
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks for the info Druid.. I only have a 600w PSU and hope that is going to suffice for now..
|
#32
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Now we really reach a new level in placebo effect! |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Another thing to think about is some cheaper psu have far less output than what they claim to have. Also cheaper units can have power surges that can at best crash a game and at worst wreck your computer. The power can drop then spike due to things like the fridge starting.
I am a novice at best when it comes to building computers so I did alot of research in every component. One thing I learnt in my latest build was the psu is as important as any other component. In fact most builders will tell you to use a psu much bigger than you need as chances are you will add components to your pc at a later time. |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Will fit it tonight and run some tests on the Black Death track and see about performance change. I have plenty of Fraps benchmarks on file from the old psu, so I'll do some comparisons. Having said that, it won't bother me if there's no change as I'll still need the Psu if I upgrade the card. We shall see! ![]() |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
PSU must be able to maintain regulation under load, my recently replaced 750W dipped to 11.5V when launching missions in CoD and the GPU would not render correctly.
I tried it as an additional dedicated GPU supply but the rugulation is fubarred. The replacement coolmaster provides good steady 12V regualtion under load. If you have two known good PSU's (and space to fit) I don't see why you shouldn't connect them in tandem to share load, just make sure that the common rails are tied together (usually most PSU's 0v is connected to the PSU casing and if both are bolted to the steel casing both PSU's should have a common ground 0v). The only concern I would have are possible effects of having some 12V and 5V rails being present at slightly different times during switch on (unless you can get the mobo to switch both on at the same time). Interesting thread. |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Here's just an example of a site where one can check what type of PSU is needed. http://www.raptoxx.com/calculator.php Quote:
Quote:
Anyways, we both agree that a 80 plus 500W is sufficient for most systems. The OP had 350W so can't hurt with his new 500 Corsair (or rebranded Seasonic if u like). Btw, I hate multiquote! ![]() |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Let's not fail to include the draw from USB when trying to figure out what one needs to power their system. Flight simmers tend to have quite a few USB devices all trying to get their juice as well. |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"PC Power and Cooling" power supplies are the only ones I will use. They build industrial power supplies and hobby power supplies. They build them, not import them.
|
#39
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
1+ And dare to try to convince him he is wrong.
|
#40
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
Fitted new 700w OCZ psu from original Dell OE 350w psu. Here are the Black Death Fraps results before and after, with identical ingame graphics settings and CCC preset. Before - Frames, Time (ms), Min, Max, Avg 4155, 212890, 6, 50, 19.517 After - Frames, Time (ms), Min, Max, Avg 4130, 214891, 7, 50, 19.219 in-game AA off, card AA and anisotropic filter set to application controlled (so no AA at all then!) Vertical refresh always off All other card settings set to 'high performance' SSAO off, V-Synch off, epilepsy off All detail settings set to 'High', grass on, shadows on. Ah well, at least I know I can upgrade the card now! ![]() |
![]() |
|
|