A good joystick for Clod

[Sokol1]

Thrustmaster TM16000 stick... It uses Halls sensors which are contactless - they won't wear out, start to "Spike", and are very precise. It's a good stick which should last a lifetime, literally.

Notice that TM16.000M HALL sensor is only in X and Y axis, rudder and throttle still use ordinary pots, the same bad quality find in 90% of low cost sticks (and even in Cougar):
http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.ph...109#post883109

In spite of this, T16.000 is the best option available in entry level joystick.

Sokol1

[buzzard]

I have the Saitek X52 Pro with throttle quadrant and pedals. Very satisfied, works great with CloD, Wings of Prey and Rise of Flight, to name a few. Most games seem to recognize the setup, as the controls are usually configured out of the gate, with a few tweaks of course. I agree about the 'old style' pots, but no problems as yet. The regular X52 looks like a Star Trek device, go for the Pro, it looks better (if that matters).

AMD Phenom II 965 BE 3.4 stock
8 GB GSKill RAM
Win 7 Pro 64 bit
ATI 5830 x 2 Crossfire
Creative X-Fi Titanium

[bravoalpha]

Originally Posted by Sokol1

Notice that TM16.000M HALL sensor is only in X and Y axis, rudder and throttle still use ordinary pots, the same bad quality find in 90% of low cost sticks (and even in Cougar):
http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.ph...109#post883109

In spite of this, T16.000 is the best option available in entry level joystick.

Sokol1

Edit: I saw a site with wrong infos. If the T16.000 not an FFB stick, go for a basic Saitek like the Aviator with two throttle.
Any normal pot can be replaced easily, or there are a lot of way to clean and make them work forever! If its ever will be needed. I never heard any problems about Saitek (like cyborg) , thousands of hours of use and no matter.

OFF:
Haha, those crappots! Can anyone tell anything about them? 100K linear, 270°? In my Logitech all of these kinda potmeter is working only in the short range, max 60° in middle way. I started a DIY controller project and I want to replace them!
ON

[bolox]

100K linear, 270° would be a standard pot. the type used in some joysticks do often have a reduced 'active' rotation of ~60 deg as you notice.

pretty much any 100k pot will work tho i usually look for at least 1/2 Watt rating and if its in the specs the projected number of rotations ~1000000 is good.

for a first project i'd suggest just getting cheapish pots(<£5) and a cheap plastic 'project box' to mount them in. if you are thinking of using one or more pots for trims (partic elev) i'd recommend finding a pot with 'multiturn' capability-5 or 10 turns is normal. these are around £10 each but the better sensitivity is worth it

good luck

[Sokol1]

Any normal pot can be replaced easily,

Mmm, not too easy.

Joystick pot in general is different from "normal" pot, that are build to work for ~270 degress.
Some joystick pot have condutive trail only in ~60 degress, eventually a 270 one work for substituition, but with loss of resolution.
The major problemn is find new pot with same phisical dimentions of the old, the same leght of axis and the key in apropriated angle.
If joystick mannufacture provides replacents, but in general no.
Someone say that is due to the fact to replace pot is need soldering, and one can burn your fingers in the procces and sue the manufacturer (in USA)...
Exception is CH Products, their pots dont require soldef, just plug tabs.

In my Logitech all of these kinda potmeter is working only in the short range, max 60° in middle way. I started a DIY controller project and I want to replace them!
ON

Fortunatelly today is easy and inexpensive replace pots with HALL sensor - if you have a DIY mind.

Buy Honeywell SS495A or Allegro A1321EUA-T HALL sensor, some neodimium magnets, and plug in pots wires. The "hard" part is find the correct center, require many trial and errors. See some tips in SimHQ.

[quote]
100K linear, 270° would be a standard pot[/quote

100k pot are standart in gamepor devices.

Today USB controllers use low values, tipically 10~50k.

The "rule of the thumb": hight values tend to pick more "noise" (spikes), and low values consumes more Amperes from USB port.

Sokol1

[Damixu]

MS SideWinder FFB 2 > any other available on the market as WWII aircraft control.

[bravoalpha]

Originally Posted by Sokol1

Mmm, not too easy.

Joystick pot in general is different from "normal" pot, that are build to work for ~270 degress.
Some joystick pot have condutive trail only in ~60 degress, eventually a 270 one work for substituition, but with loss of resolution.
The major problemn is find new pot with same phisical dimentions of the old, the same leght of axis and the key in apropriated angle.

The good pots (like Saitek's) seems fit with some standards in size and the trail and shaft can resize or recalibrate with a little work - or the old ones could be cleand and lubricate. A musician/guitar forum could help for the tricks.

Thanks for the tips! I will check the HALL sensors, but now I need only some knob to turn before me and pots below them.
Cheers!

[Sokol1]

If you plan use for trim, look at these pot (with knobs):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Electro-Te...item4ab32cabc5

Sokol1

[xnomad]

MSFFB2 all the way.

I say this all the time but why don't the stick manufacturers try to make one as good or better? Surely they must be aware that the MSFFB2 is the one to beat. People are willing to paying $150 for a second hand one for goodness sake!

Won't MS sell the patent to someone?

We should petition Saitek, Logitech, CH etc to try to make one. It's silly that we are all running such old hardware and I dread the day mine packs it in. I've already lost button 2 and I don't want to risk opening it up and fix it until the trigger button goes.

[bravoalpha]

Originally Posted by Sokol1

If you plan use for trim, look at these pot (with knobs):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Electro-Te...item4ab32cabc5

Sokol1

Thanks! Fortunately I can find multiturn pots in better price, i'll start with them.