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IL-2 Sturmovik: Cliffs of Dover Latest instalment in the acclaimed IL-2 Sturmovik series from award-winning developer Maddox Games. |
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#1
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Instead of being an a**hole give the OP some examples of good PSU. |
#2
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No, hardly not. General overwattage is backed up by fuses, and genreally, if you overwatt one rails then you probaly get voltage drops on the other rails, causing instabilities.
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So even a 590Ti card with its 2 8 Pin PCIe connectors cannot draw more than a theoretical 2*150+1*75Watts=375 Watts theoretical limit that the power adaptors itself can safely handle. The "needs a 550 Watt" psu recommendations are just a safe margin. You can have scenerios where you draw more watts, say on the 12Volts rail of an psu than the psu can handle even as the complete watte of all rails itself isnt reached. Thus we get this rather high recommended (complete) wattage. Quote:
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If you would have read my text you might have been able to get the "seasonic is a good brand" message, but maybe it was just hidden too deep. The wattage itself depends on the system you are running. But a single 4GHz Quadcore intel with some hdds/opical drives (that are in the sub 20 watts area, more like even under the sub 10 watts) and 1 or 2 GPUs is hardly asking for more than a good 550-650 Watt PSU. Even under spiking. |
#3
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Thanks for the info Druid.. I only have a 600w PSU and hope that is going to suffice for now..
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#4
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Another thing to think about is some cheaper psu have far less output than what they claim to have. Also cheaper units can have power surges that can at best crash a game and at worst wreck your computer. The power can drop then spike due to things like the fridge starting.
I am a novice at best when it comes to building computers so I did alot of research in every component. One thing I learnt in my latest build was the psu is as important as any other component. In fact most builders will tell you to use a psu much bigger than you need as chances are you will add components to your pc at a later time. |
#5
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Will fit it tonight and run some tests on the Black Death track and see about performance change. I have plenty of Fraps benchmarks on file from the old psu, so I'll do some comparisons. Having said that, it won't bother me if there's no change as I'll still need the Psu if I upgrade the card. We shall see! ![]() |
#6
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PSU must be able to maintain regulation under load, my recently replaced 750W dipped to 11.5V when launching missions in CoD and the GPU would not render correctly.
I tried it as an additional dedicated GPU supply but the rugulation is fubarred. The replacement coolmaster provides good steady 12V regualtion under load. If you have two known good PSU's (and space to fit) I don't see why you shouldn't connect them in tandem to share load, just make sure that the common rails are tied together (usually most PSU's 0v is connected to the PSU casing and if both are bolted to the steel casing both PSU's should have a common ground 0v). The only concern I would have are possible effects of having some 12V and 5V rails being present at slightly different times during switch on (unless you can get the mobo to switch both on at the same time). Interesting thread. |
#7
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Here's just an example of a site where one can check what type of PSU is needed. http://www.raptoxx.com/calculator.php Quote:
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Anyways, we both agree that a 80 plus 500W is sufficient for most systems. The OP had 350W so can't hurt with his new 500 Corsair (or rebranded Seasonic if u like). Btw, I hate multiquote! ![]() |
#8
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Let's not fail to include the draw from USB when trying to figure out what one needs to power their system. Flight simmers tend to have quite a few USB devices all trying to get their juice as well. |
#9
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"PC Power and Cooling" power supplies are the only ones I will use. They build industrial power supplies and hobby power supplies. They build them, not import them.
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#10
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How-to-Discover-Your-Power-Supplys-Real-Manufacturer http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...-oem,2729.html Last edited by swiss; 06-07-2011 at 02:52 PM. |
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